The first project I am going to be showing y'all is for a LARP set in the Black Hills of the United Sates in the 1880s. I have some white muslin for the chemise and drawers, some white cotton for the corset and some beige and cream striped soft cotton for the dress. The character is a very pious and modest, working class woman. For this reason, and because I am super clumsy and need to be able to wear this all day without flattening small children or knocking over tables every time I turn around, I am not intending to go madly off into the second bustle era.
The silhouette will be understated and a little old-fashioned for the era. The dress was her sisters 7 years ago and has been reworked for her after her sister married well and left it to her. There will be some gathering at the back of the skirt, and perhaps a little bum roll, but no more than that. I also tend to overheat badly so I am going to be making two options for the top, a very staid and sensible bodice with sleeves, but also a waistcoat with thin muslin shirt which I am still researching the possible (in)authenticity of.
I have started with with the Symington Pretty Housemaid (https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=7559) - an extant example of a cheap, working woman's stays from 1890. So it is a tiny bit late for my costume, but the principle outline of the corset itself doesn't change that much 1880-1890 and it is designed to be cheap (important for me and my character). It was also designed to be a working woman's support, rather than a fashionista's tightlacing.
I will then be going onto the Chemise and Split Drawers, which I am using simple outlines for based on these from Princeton University https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ee/6b/93/ee6b936d7824b577911531efb8961d35.jpg I will be going for the simplest versions with minimal lace for reasons of actual and character poverty, and to try to keep things simple overall.
I've yet to decide if I'm going to make or buy stockings... I think buy is probably more likely.
The skirt is going to be based off this pattern https://i.pinimg.com/originals/61/47/8b/61478b65c8e8d1072608d1f5ce22cfe9.jpg and I will watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za40PYeJU6c.
And the bodice likely this one https://i.pinimg.com/736x/82/ed/3e/82ed3e432414bef90be453b70e258944--bodice-strand.jpg
The waistcoat will be use this for reference https://duckduckgo.com/?q=womens+wastcoat+pattern+1880&t=ffab&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.fieldsfabrics.com%2Fassets%2Fimages%2Ffolkwear222a.jpg though not the double buttoned one. Also this video will be watched again, and again, and again.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THzNFKwrIOM, again a bit later but very useful.
The shirt I am still working on a source for, I am thinking a round, stand up collar with fairly loose and simple shaping on the body and flared shoulders on the sleeves coming into a tight cuff.
There will be much pattern drafting to do and much measuring. I am hoping the undergarments will be reusable for a long distant project for a more fashionable bustle skirt and jacket.
Aaaannnnd I almost forgot there will be at least one ruffled petticoat to make the gathered skirts sit correctly, and possibly a bum roll as well, though I will decide that later on. More references for underwear https://i.pinimg.com/736x/42/f3/28/42f3283b599b3bc169593949b87b8189.jpg.
This will also be watched many times for inspiration - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovWsXgUMEGc a bit fancy but the silhouettes and layers are correct.
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