Hello.
I am going to add in pictures of my pets along the way, because pets are awesome. But largely this blog is going to be about my journey in historical costume making. I'd like to introduce myself and my approach.
I am a larger lady. I mention this because I know there are plenty of people like me out there, some of whom might want to get into historical costuming, but might be put off by the photos and paintings they see.
So! Firstly look at the paintings by Rubens in the early 1600s, larger ladies were definately around then. Secondly look at the front cover of vogue today. The average drawing or painting of the Victorian era would have resembled the model as much as the front cover of a fashion magazine does tody. The average model for a photo would have resembled the rest of the population as much as the model on the front of a fashion magazine does today.
Today we are not all 6ft, leggy, slender and 19 with impossibly perky bosoms. The Victorians and Edwardians were not all tiny waifs with improbably small waists, correspondingly suprisingly cushioned chests and frankly anatomically impossible buttocks. The secret was underwear, padding, angles, early photomanipulation and forgiving paintings. Whether you're bonyer than you'd like, fluffier than you'd prefer, tall or short, or perfectly happy with your shape but pretty sure it wouldn't make a historical silhouette there is underwear that will help.
And it is not torturous! Yes the level of comfort in an Edwardian 'S' bend corset, or Victorian wasp waist, or even Tudor stays will not be the same feeling of comfort you get from pajamas. But for me any of the above, if fitted correctly, can be at least as comfortable as the binding and cutting modern sports bra required to prevent me from cracking a rib or breaking my jaw when I run. Tightlacing in the Victorian and Edwardian eras definately happened, but it was mostly practiced by the fashionistas, the Kardashians of their day, just as extreme plastic surgery today is available, but not everyone does it.
Next I wanted to go over my approach to historical costuming. The seeking of the elusive beast Historical Authenticity.
Now, I'm a LARPer so my current costume is mostly what you might call LARPthentic - looks remenicent from 10 paces but you can see the edges of the curtains when you get up close. I am working on making my costume more authentic but there may be some flexibility in my approach.
Also - what is authentic? Accuracy is not possible. We weren't alive then, we don't know what has been lost, like the gaudily painted Greek statues or the sea water the Romans didn't bother noting on their cement recipe - cos everyone knew that. We can only go on the best remaining evidence. And the further back you go the less evidence there is.
So I will simply try to make it clear when I am working from directly evidence based patterns, fabrics, stitches etc and reference the evidence wherever I can. When I am using probable best guesses based on the tools and materials available at the time. And when I am simply making it up to solve an intractable problem in an otherwise relatively authentic garment.
References - straight off the bat I will say:
- Go watch Bernadette Banner. She is wonderful, engaging, interesting and academic. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q
- Abby Cox does hilarious unboxing and reviews of genuine historical garments and has some great experiences from actually wearing historical dress long term. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg
- The Symington Collection in Leicestershire is a fantastic set of Victorian stays and corsets, with patterns, all available to see. https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=11963
- Facebook groups - there are some lovely communities of like minded and helpful costume makers and sewists out there. Two of my favourites are Plus-Sized Historical Costuming https://www.facebook.com/groups/334134957630518/ and Historybounding https://www.facebook.com/groups/516027862514564/
I will also note that I HATE modern fashion, largely because nothing that looks ok feels comfortable, nothing that feels comfortable looks good, nothing has pockets, and rarely does anything feel comfortable whilst looking terrible or look ok whilst feeling horrible - mostly it just looks terrible and feels terrible. However - by making my own clothes, getting better at stitching and taking inspiration from an era where I feel the shapes suit me a little more flatteringly I am hoping I can start to build a wardrobe for real life as well as costumes.
That post is plenty long enough so I will sign off now, but I'll likely come back and add to the list of useful links as I find them.
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